#Installing backup camera on truck install
#Installing backup camera on truck license
#Installing backup camera on truck professional
#Installing backup camera on truck free

It is a Crimestopper SV-5340.II license plate mount camera with a hide-away bracket. “I use a rear view camera where the bracket mounts behind the license plate. Kudos to them!” – Parker Maddux, 20 HD, Hallmark 2013 Ute-EverestĪbove: The Crimestopper SV-5340.II license plate mount camera with a hide-away bracket We might add that Todi Brothers were great as a vendor, and for answering our few follow-up questions. We have concluded that we will never again be without a backup camera. The camera needs an occasional cleaning, and rain on it makes for a kaleidoscope view. The camera and screen have been flawless, apart from very occasional electrical interference from passing vehicles (trucks, mostly) when the screen will momentarily go blank or flash interesting colors. The side mounted mirrors are never quite enough. The camera is mounted at the top rear of the camper.ĭo we like it? You bet! It is a huge safety advantage, particularly when backing into a parking place, when we’re on the highway to spot vehicles passing to the left or right, or when changing lanes. It is a wireless camera with a small screen mounted with velcro on our dashboard. Both are wireless and worth the price.” – Robert Lee Hicks, 2008 Chevrolet 3500HD, 2011 Lance 992 The Voyager cost about $700 and the iBall was $150. It even works at night as the truck lights provide enough light to see the trailer tongue. It allows me to see the trailer tongue and to back the ball directly under it perfectly each and every time I try. The monitor is on a flexible semi-rigid stalk that plugs into a dash convenience outlet. The camera is a magnetic mount that sits on top of the hitch ball mount. My second system is an iBall camera that I use for backing up to any of my trailers. I no longer need my bride to help with this task to prevent running into and crushing the gutters (it has happened, twice). It comes in very handy when backing up to my garage at home to load or unload. This unit is used when backing up to park/camp and to monitor my boat when traveling. The monitor plugs into a 12-volt convenience outlet on the dash. The power for the camera comes from the running lights above the camper entry door. The first system I bought aftermarket was a Voyager Digital Wireless (#WVOS511). “I actually use two different back-up cameras on my Lance 992. This week’s Question of the Week was, “Do you use a rear view camera and – if you do – what make and model do you use, and do you like it?” If so, you’ll need a drill, and some guts.Truck Camper Magazine readers reveal the back-up cameras they use on their truck campers. You may need to make a hole somewhere to get the camera wires into your trunk. Always cover your wire connections to keep them secure, clean, and away from other wires. Electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing.

#Installing backup camera on truck install

Most cameras and displays come with enough connectors to install everything, but if you need to cut a wire or redo a connection, having a variety pack of connectors can save you from a mid-project trip to the hardware store.

Use plastic tools near anything delicate. Removing little trim pieces with a screwdriver or metal blade can mar plastic or scratch paint.

Flathead and Phillips-head screwdrivers-you’ll come across something that needs to be popped out or unscrewed somewhere along the way.

A simple set for under $30 should do the trick. At minimum, you’ll need to disconnect the negative terminal on your battery, and you may need to loosen a taillight or other part.

A basic socket-wrench set or open-end wrench set.

If not, get some that can easily strip the ends of smaller, 24- and 26-gauge wire, too.

Small-gauge wire strippers 22-gauge will do, if you have them.

#Installing backup camera on truck free

About two to four hours of free time, and a bit of moxie.

#Installing backup camera on truck professional

Most DIYers shouldn’t bother with flush-mount cameras-they’re best left to professional installers. In some situations, such as on a truck’s tailgate, this kind of camera can be the best solution, but it requires drilling a visible hole into your vehicle, and it leaves no margin of error in determining the vertical angle of the camera: If the surface you drill into leaves the camera pointing too high or low, you’re stuck with it. Flush-mount installations: You insert this type into a car-body part, such as a bumper or a trunk lid.Depending on the model, you attach a center mount with simple clips, adhesive strips, or more-permanent screws. License-plate center mounts: Almost as easy to install as frame replacements, these designs position the camera on a tiny, tilting neck that attaches behind the top of your license plate.The camera is embedded into a frame that you screw into the same holes as your license plate the frame goes across the top of the plate or all the way around, like a normal license-plate frame. License-plate frame replacements: These models are the easiest to install, and the best for most people doing it themselves.